Ojos del Salado, located in the Andes mountain range on the border between Chile and Argentina, is the world’s highest active volcano, standing at an impressive 6,893 meters (22,615 feet) above sea level. This formidable peak attracts climbers from all over the world, offering a unique blend of high-altitude adventure, extreme conditions, and breathtaking landscapes. Unlike other peaks of similar altitude, Ojos del Salado is considered a non-technical climb, making it an enticing challenge for mountaineers seeking high-altitude experiences without the need for advanced technical skills.
Why Climb Ojos del Salado?
Climbing Ojos del Salado is an extraordinary adventure for several reasons:
- Highest Active Volcano: As the tallest active volcano in the world, summiting Ojos del Salado is an achievement sought after by high-altitude climbers and volcano enthusiasts.
- Non-Technical Route: The standard ascent route does not require advanced technical climbing skills, making it accessible to experienced trekkers with good physical condition.
- Breathtaking Scenery: The surrounding Atacama Desert offers surreal landscapes, with vast salt flats, high-altitude lagoons, and rugged volcanic terrain.
- A Test of Endurance: Due to its extreme altitude and harsh conditions, the climb presents a significant physical and mental challenge.
Best Time to Climb
The best months to climb Ojos del Salado are November to March, during the austral summer. These months offer the most stable weather conditions, although climbers should still be prepared for extreme cold, strong winds, and rapid weather changes. Winter climbs (June to August) are possible but require more preparation due to harsher conditions and increased snowfall.
Climbing Route and Itinerary
The most common route to the summit starts from Copiapó, a city in northern Chile, where climbers travel by 4×4 vehicles towards the base camp. The ascent usually takes between 8 to 12 days, allowing for proper acclimatization to the high altitude. Below is a typical itinerary:
- Arrival in Copiapó – Gear check, permits, and transportation arrangements.
- Drive to Laguna Verde (4,350 m / 14,270 ft) – A scenic spot with hot springs, great for initial acclimatization.
- Acclimatization Climbs – Climbers often hike nearby peaks such as Cerro Siete Hermanas or Cerro San Francisco.
- Move to Base Camp (5,200 m / 17,060 ft) – The true starting point of the climb.
- Establish High Camp (5,800 m / 19,030 ft) – Final camp before summit push.
- Summit Day (6,893 m / 22,615 ft) – A long, challenging ascent involving a final rock scramble before reaching the top.
- Descent and Return to Copiapó – After a successful summit, climbers descend and celebrate their achievement.
Challenges and Risks
Despite its non-technical nature, climbing Ojos del Salado presents several challenges:
- Altitude Sickness: At nearly 7,000 meters, altitude sickness is a major concern. Proper acclimatization is crucial.
- Extreme Weather: High winds, subzero temperatures, and sudden storms can create hazardous conditions.
- Remote Location: The Atacama Desert is one of the most isolated regions on Earth, requiring thorough logistical planning.
- Final Rock Climb: The last section before the summit involves scrambling over rocks, requiring careful movement and a head for heights.
Essential Gear
Climbers need to be well-equipped to handle the harsh environment. Key gear includes:
- Cold-weather clothing (down jackets, thermal layers, windproof gear)
- High-altitude boots and crampons
- Ice axe (for certain conditions)
- Sleeping bag rated for extreme cold
- High-altitude tent
- Sufficient food and water (or a purification system)
- GPS, map, and satellite communication device
Permits and Regulations
Climbers need to obtain a climbing permit from Chilean authorities before attempting the ascent. It’s also advisable to register with local authorities for safety reasons. Hiring a local guide is not mandatory but highly recommended, especially for those unfamiliar with high-altitude mountaineering.
Climbing Ojos del Salado is an unforgettable experience that combines the thrill of high-altitude mountaineering with the stark beauty of the Atacama Desert. Though not a technical climb, its extreme altitude and harsh conditions make it a formidable challenge. With proper preparation, determination, and respect for the mountain, reaching the summit of the world’s highest active volcano is an achievement that will remain etched in the memory of every climber who undertakes the journey.